Sunday, August 18, 2013
Well it's the big push to get the boat into the water. I found it much easier to raise the mast single-handed if I used the two port winches to pull the line attached to the jib halyard. I am planning on sailing Labor Day Monday (Sept 2, 2013). I pressure washed the mildew and grime off the deck and washed the cabin area which was way more work then I would have liked. There was mud, old hornet nests, mud daubbers nests and beer cans stuck way up in the aft end. I replaced the halyards w/ new rope but I just used cheap rope from Lowes for now. I did not want to spend the $$ on good line until I knew the boat sailed or at least floated. I replaced the board the traveler sits on w/ a piece of composite decking I had laying around. It worked well. I seated the board w/ silicone for now because I plan on removing it next year for a paint job. I used stainless steel #10 2" bolts w/ nylon locknuts underneath.I added aluminum backing plates which I made from stock aluminum bar. Tractor Supply sold the aluminum. I used a bar that was 1/8"x2"x36" for $12.99 then cut it into 5" pieces for the backing plates. The original backing was 1/8" plywood which was flaking apart. While I was laying on my back looking up I noticed there were several fittings that had no backing plates. I can't imagine this is a good idea and plan on adding backing plates to all the fittings but that will have to be another day. I was looking at the wiring in the boat. I have no idea where the battery is usually stored. If anyone can shed some light on this I would appreciate it. There are several areas where wires disappear into the fiberglass and I am not sure how all this goes together. There is a main switch board. For now I do not plan on sailing at night but I am sure that will come. If anyone has ideas about how this wiring works I would appreciate your help so I am not reinventing the wheel.In the forward section there is a lower compartment that is covered by two plywood doors. In this compartment is a round plastic fitting where a wire goes into. The fitting is havily caulked w/ silicone (sloppy job at best). The wire from the fitting disappears into the wall of the box which is below the plywood cover. I am assuming this is the speed indicator relay. The only instrument on the boat is a speed indicator located topsides on the straboard wall next to the cabin doorway. The next step is to check out the outboard. I have an ancient 4HP outboard but it is standard length. I hope to be able to rig up something w/ the motor bracket that came w/ the boat so I can use it. I do have a paddle but I would like to use the motor if possible. I can't see buying a long shaft motor until I am sure the boat is sea worthy.
Once all the grime was off the deck I could inspect the paint job done by the previous owner. It was a poor job w/ paint drips and puddles. The fittings were not removed either. Next year I plan on removing all the hardware and stripping off the paint and starting from the fiberglass. I am not sure what to do with the anti-slid areas. These were painted over. I am thinking I will have to use chemical paint remover or I could sand it down flat and add grit to the paint in those areas for anti-skid action.
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